Cycle South
Carolina
June 13-18, 2010
HOW TO PERFECT YOUR RIDING POSITION & TECHNIQUE
BY Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com
Cycling is full of prodigious numbers – the distances ridden, the calories consumed, the tires trashed. Another statistic that can seem astounding is the number of pedal strokes made.
Let’s suppose it takes you six hours to ride a century and you pedal at the rate of 90rpm throughout. As you cross the finish line, you will be making pedal stroke number 64,800.
Whoa, that’s a lot! But it barely registers on the scale of what happens during a full season. For example, during the year in which I had my biggest mileage total, I figure that I got there by pushing the pedals around approximately 13,340,000 times.
Can you say repetitive use injury? You can see why cyclists are good candidates, especially if we aren’t pedaling from a nearly perfect position.
Your body and bike must fit together and work together in near-perfect harmony for you to be efficient, comfortable, and injury-free. The more you ride, the more essentials this is. If even one thing is out of whack, it’s a good bet that it will cause a problem during thousands of pedal strokes.
Fortunately, it isn’t difficult to arrive at an excellent riding position. But it does take time and attention. You need to be careful with your initial bike set-up then, conscientiously stay aware of your body and the need for occasional refinements. As time goes by, your position will stabilize and you’ll be riding in a smooth groove.
The following guidelines come from my experience and the advice of various experts. One is Andy Pruitt, Ed. D., the director of
As you work on your riding position, always remember Pruitt Rule No. 1:
“Adjust your bike to fit your body. Don’t force your body to fit the bike.”
§ Frame: Measure your inseam from crotch to floor with bare feet 6 inches apart, then multiply by 0.68. The answer is a good approximation of your road frame size, measured along the seat tube from the center of the crank axle to the center of the top tube. As a double check, this should produce 4 to 5 inches of exposed seat post when your saddle height is correct. When the crank arms are horizontal, the top tube should be right between your knees when you squeeze them together.
§ Arms: Keep your elbows bent and relaxed to absorb shock and prevent veering when you hit a bump or brush another rider. Hold arms in line with your body, not splayed to the side, to be more compact and aerodynamic.
§ Upper Body/Shoulders: Don’t be rigid, but do be fairly still. Imagine the energy wasted by rocking side to side with every pedal stroke on a 25-mile ride. Save it for pedaling. Also, beware of creeping forward on the saddle and hunching your shoulders. There’s a tendency to do this when pushing for more speed. Shift to a higher gear and stand periodically to prevent stiffness in your hips and back.
§ Neck and Back: Resist the temptation to put your head down when you’re going hard or getting tired. It takes just a second for something dangerous to pop out of nowhere. Occasionally tilt your head to one side and the other instead of holding it dead center. Change your hand location to reposition your upper body and give your neck a new angle.
§ Hands: Prevent finger numbness by moving your hands frequently. Grip the bar firmly enough to keep hands from bouncing off on unexpected bumps, but not so tightly that it tenses your arms. For the same safety reason, keep your thumbs wrapped around the bar instead of resting on top. Move to the drops for descents or high-speed riding, and the brake lever hoods for relaxed cruising. On long climbs, grip the top of the bar to sit upright and open your chest for easier breathing. When standing, hold the lever hoods lightly and sway the bike side to side in synch with your pedal strokes, directly driving each pedal with your body weight.
§ Handlebar: Bar width should equal shoulder width to open your chest for better breathing. A bit too wide is better than too narrow. Make sure the hooks are large enough for your hands. Modified “anatomic” curves may feel more comfortable to your palms. Position the bottom, flat portion of the bar horizontal or pointed slightly down toward the rear brake.
§ Brake Levers: Move them around the curve of the bar to give you the best compromise between holding the hoods and braking when your hands are in the hooks. Most riders do best if the lever tips touch a straightedge extended forward from under the flat, bottom portion of the bar. The levers don’t have to be positioned symmetrically – remember Andy Pruitt’s rule. If your reach is more comfortable with one lever closer to you than the other, put ‘em that way.
§ Stem Height: Start with the top of the stem about one inch below the top of the saddle. This should give you comfortable access to every hand position. As time goes by, think about lowering the stem as much as another inch (not all at once) to improve your aerodynamics. If your lower back or neck starts complaining, or if you notice you’ve stopped using the drops, go back up. Never put the stem so high that its maximum extension line show or it could be snapped off by your weight on the bar.
§ Top-tube and Stem Lengths: Combined, these two dimensions determine “reach.” Depending on your anatomy and flexibility, your reach could be longer for better aerodynamics, or it may need to be shorter for back or neck comfort. For most riders, when they’re comfortably seated with their elbows slightly bent and their hands on the lever hoods, the front hub will be obscured by the handlebar.
§ Back: A flat back is the defining mark of a stylish rider. Notice I didn’t say a great rider. Anatomy and flexibility have a lot to do with how flat you can get. Lance Armstrong, for instance, has a rounded back that’s not picture perfect and yet he still manages to go down the road pretty well. The same was true for John Howard, once
§ Saddle Height: This is the biggie. You’ll find various methods for calculating this critical number. Here’s the one I like best. It has become known as the LeMond Method, because Greg brought it to us from his Renault team in the 1980’s. (Invite a friend over so you can help each other and both wind up with primo positions).
Begin by standing on a hard surface with your shoes off and your feet about 6inches apart. Using a metric tape, measure from the floor to your crotch, pressing with the same force that a saddle does. Multiply this number by 0.883. The result is your saddle height, measured from the middle of the crank axle, along the seat tube, to the top of the saddle.
Add 2 or 3mm if you have long feet in proportion to your height. If you suffer from chondromalacia (knee pain caused by damage to the underside of the kneecap), slightly higher saddle may feel better. However, it should never be so high that your hips must rock to help you reach the pedals. If this formula results in a big change from the height you’ve been using, make the adjustment by 2 or 3mm per week, with several rides between, till you reach the new position. Changing too fast could strain something.
§ Saddle Tilt: The saddle should be level, which you can check by laying a yardstick along its length and comparing it to something horizontal like a tabletop or windowsill. A slight downward tilt may be more comfortable, but be careful. More that a degree or two could cause you to continually slide forward, putting pressure on your arms and hands.
§ Fore/Aft Saddle Position: Sit comfortably in the center of the saddle, click into the pedals, and set the crank arms horizontal. Hold a weighted string to the front of your forward kneecap. For most of us, the string should touch the end of the crank arm. This is known as the neutral position. Loosen the seat post clamp so you can slide the saddle to get it right. Seated climbers, time trialists, and some road racers may like the line to fall a centimeter or two behind the end of the crank arm to increase pedaling leverage. On the other hand, track and criterium racers may like a more forward position that breeds leg speed. Remember, if your reach to the handlebar is wrong, use stem length to correct it, nor fore/aft saddle position.
§ Butt: By sliding fore or aft on the saddle you can bring some muscles into play while resting others. This is a technique favored by Skip Hamilton, my teammate in the 1996 Race Across America. Moving forward emphasizes the quadriceps muscles on the front of the thighs, while moving back highlights the hamstrings and gluts – the powerful butt muscles.
§ Feet: Some of us walk like pigeons, others like Charlie Chaplin. Your footprints as you leave a swimming pool will tip you off. To make cycling easier on your knees, shoe cleats must put your feet at their natural angle. This is a snap with clipless pedal systems that allow feet to pivot freely (“float”) several degrees before release. Then all you need to do is set the cleats’ fore/aft position, which is easy. Simply position them so the widest part of each foot is centered on the pedal axle. If you experience discomfort such as tingling, numbness or burning (especially on long rides), move the cleats rearward as much as a centimeter.
§ Crankarm Length: In general, if your inseam is less than 29inches, use 165-mm crank arms; 29-32 inches, 170mm; 33-34inches, 175.5; and more than 34inches, 175mm. a crankarm’s length is measured from the center of its fixing bolt to the center of the pedal mounting hole. The length is usually stamped on the back of the arm. If you use longer crank arms than recommended, you’ll gain leverage for pushing big gears but lose some pedaling speed.
SAFETY IS EVERYONE’S RESPONSIBILITY
When you ride in a group your actions affect the safety of all those in the group. The following information is provided by the Palmetto Cycling Coalition to help make the MS Break Away to the Beach 2004 safe for everyone. You can test your knowledge with out online safety quiz at: http://www.nationalmssociety.org/ncp/
PREPARE – Your Equipment, Your Body & Your Mind
YOUR EQUIPMENT
§ The bike must be in good working order – brakes, tires, chain, shifters, etc. Have your bike shop check it, but don’t wait until the last minute.
§ Your bike must be properly fitted. Improper fit may cause knee problems and other discomfort. Consult your bike shop if you need help fitting your bike.
§ Check your tires often. Even new tires may get cut and need to be replaced.
§ Tires must be properly inflated. Underinflation causes many flats, and will make it harder to pedal your bike. Check the pressure at least once a week.
§ Helmets should fit snugly and chinstraps should have minimal slack.
§ Carry a spare tube, patch kit and pump. Know how to use them.
§ Carry clothing for cold or wet weather.
§ A bell or horn is required by law. A mirror allows you to see what is behind you without turning around.
§ Wear high visibility clothing. You want to be seen.
YOUR BODY
§ Train before Cycle South Carolina. You will enjoy the ride more. Build up gradually, don’t overdo it! Taper off during the last 2 weeks.
§ Wear cycling apparel for comfort. (No underwear under cycling shorts) Lubricants can help prevent chafing. Change into loose clothing after the ride.
§ Gloves cushion your hands and protect them from injury.
§ Try to maintain a pedaling cadence of 80rpm or more. This is easier on your muscles and joints and will increase your aerobic efficiency.
§ Know your limits. Ride with a group that rides at your speed. You should be able to carry on a conversation, otherwise slow down.
§ Stay hydrated. Drink before you are thirsty. An energy drink will help maintain your electrolytes and provide carbs. If you don’t need to go to the potty every hour or two, you are not drinking enough. One water bottle per hour is a general guideline.
§ Relax your muscles. If you are tense you are wasting energy and won’t be smooth.
§ Remember to eat. You must replace the energy you are burning. Do not try to diet the weekend of Cycle South Carolina. You should eat carbohydrates before, during and within 2 hours after the ride. Some protein is also needed. Eat every 30 minutes or so. Know what your body likes.
§ You may skip some rest stops, but you need to eat and refill your water bottles every hour or so. Don’t stay too long, 5 minutes should be adequate.
§ Use a sun screen that does not burn your eyes or irritate your skin.
§ Get a massage each day after a ride. Stretch and rub your muscles toward your torso. Become a Top Banana and get a discount massage next year!
§ Wear glasses – They protect your eyes from debris, wind and sun.
§ If you experience butt numbness try standing on the pedals or get off the bike for a while. Also consider a different saddle.
§ If you feel bad, don’t push yourself. Ask for help and take the SAG vehicle.
YOUR MIND
§ Practice riding in small groups. Ask others to teach you group riding skills.
§ Learn how to signal and communicate – see section below
§ DRINKING: Practice drinking while you ride. You should be able to reach for your water bottle and return it without taking your eyes off the road ahead. If you aren’t comfortable doing this you should drop back to the back before taking a drink. You should call our “Drinking” before reaching for your water bottle.
§ Read magazines (Bicycling) and visit websites (http://www.RoadBikeRider.com). These provide specific guidance on Training, Eating, Equipment and Fit.
FOLLOW THE RULES
Bicyclists in are subject to the traffic laws applicable to the driver of a motor vehicle as well as special rules applicable to Cycle South Carolina.
DON’T
§ Don’t wear head phones while riding. Hearing other cyclists and approaching vehicles is important to cycling safely. Headphones are not allowed in Cycle South Carolina.
§ Don’t ride in double pace lines during Cycle South Carolina.
§ Don’t pass another cyclist on the right.
DO:
§ ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET. Helmets are required during Cycle South Carolina and should be worn whenever riding. They significantly reduce the chance of a head injury.
§ Obey all traffic signs and signals (unless directed by a law enforcement officer).
§ Ride on the right hand side of the road with the flow of traffic.
§ Stay with young riders. All riders aged 17 or under must be accompanied by an adult guardian at all times. A notarized authorization is required for all minors.
COMMUNICATE: Communication is the key to riding safely in a group.
§ Use hand signals and verbal warnings to alert others of your intentions or hazards.
§ “Left Turn” – left arm straight out.
§ “Right Turn” – right arm straight out (or left bent up at elbow)
§ “Stopping” or “Slowing” – left arm out and down, with palm facing backward
§ “On your left” – before passing slower cyclists. If you know the number in your group tell them how many to expect.
§ Warn others when changing speed or position.
§ Warn of hazards: “Hole Right”, “Car Back”, “Gravel”, “Dog”, and “Water Bottle” etc.
§ For signals involving the group, pass the information up or back so everyone knows what is happening.
PRACTICE GOOD RIDING SKILLS
§ Be Smooth & Predictable: Other riders expect you to ride straight, at a constant speed. Signal any changes first. Do not make sudden changes in speed or direction.
§ After the group has slowed or stopped the leader should wait until the last rider has passed the obstruction before accelerating so that riders are not left behind.
§ Cross railroad tracks at 90 degrees so your wheel doesn’t get caught.
§ Always have your hands close to your brakes so that you can react quickly. Keep at least one hand on handlebars at all times.
§ Ride single file and as close to the right side as practicable so others can pass.
§ Drop to the back if you want to eat while riding.
§ Move out of the road when you stop
§ Do not ride in a paceline unless you are experienced.
§ Pay Attention! Don’t focus solely on the wheel in front of you. Be aware of what’s going on two or three riders ahead and up the road. Anticipate stopping or slowing.
§ Never overlap the wheel in front of you. It can lead to needless crashes.
§ Swing wide of potholes and debris. (A near miss is too close!) Point them out.
§ Don’t slam on your brakes. Use brakes cautiously, if you brake hard in a paceline you’ll likely cause a crash. Wet brakes are less effective, practice riding in the rain.
§ Try to keep up with the riders in front to avoid large gaps from opening between riders. If you can’t keep up, tell those behind you so they can pass.
§ If you have to slow a little bit, move to the side or sit up and catch some air.
§ Aggressive dogs frequently respond to “Go Home”, otherwise squirt them with your water bottle. If you must stop, keep the bike between you and the dog.
§ Don’t use aerobars when behind even one other cyclist, you have no brakes.
§ The course is will marked – if you do not see a road marking or other riders for a while you should backtrack or ask for help.
BE COURTEOUS
§ Encourage new riders.
§ Don’t drop the group. Remember to wait until all riders in a group have passed an obstruction before speeding back up.
§ If you neither do nor want to take a turn at the front, stay near the back and tell the stronger cyclists to pull in front of you instead of making them go to the back of the line.
§ Watch for Traffic – those in front should warn if there is a “Car Up”. Riders in back inform the others by saying “car back.”
§ Watch Out At Intersections – when approaching intersections requiring vehicles to yield or stop the lead rider will say, “slowing” or “stopping” to alert those behind to the change in speed. Each cyclist is responsible for verifying that the way is clear before entering an intersection.
§ Turning – During a turn maintain your position within the group.
§ Watch for problems and help each other to be safe and enjoy the ride.
§ Announce changes in speed or direction, and any hazards in the road.
ENJOY THE RIDE
